A brief history of women's suiting

Who wears the pants: the early days

In our exploration of the evolution of both women’s suiting and the varied laws around women's clothing, we delve into a fascinating journey through time, dissecting the societal norms and legal regulations that have shaped women's fashion. From ancient civilizations to the contemporary era, the rules governing what women wear have been both reflective and influential in defining cultural attitudes and expectations.

Women's suits (and the trouser suit in particular), beyond being simple garments, hold a rich history that mirrors the evolution of societal norms and cultural shifts.

Throughout the 19th and 20th century, upper and middle-class women in the western world commonly wore tailored suits – however these were almost exclusively skirt suits. The Victorian era presented a paradoxical situation where strict dress codes coexisted with a fascination for elaborate and ornate clothing. Moral values were reflected in modest attire, yet fashion movements emerged as a form of rebellion.

The 20th century then witnessed significant shifts in societal attitudes towards women's clothing. The Women's Liberation Movement challenged traditional gender roles, influencing fashion and dress codes. Feminism played a pivotal role in dismantling restrictive dress codes, promoting the idea that women should have the freedom to choose their attire without judgment. This period marked a turning point in the evolution of women's clothing laws.

With the suffragette movement in full swing, came the ‘Suffragette Suit’. This much more practical successor of the ‘hobble skirt’ and other more restrictive fashions of the victorian era featured floor length skirts and cast aside corsetting. Around this time, women wearing trousers for leisure activities started to become more commonplace, however wearing them as a full trouser suit could was still criminalized in most places for ‘cross-dressing’. 

Marlene Dietrich is unquestionably one of the early pioneers of women wearing pantsuits; dressing in her iconic tuxedos on the silver screen and donning distinctly menswear inspired suiting throughout her life. Other celebrities, including Katharine Hepburn and Greta Garbo, famously wore trouser suits in public to much blowback. 

The 1960s ushered in second-wave feminism, with further challenges made to gender norms around dress. This period saw an unprecedented 40% of women entering the workforce in the US, and landmark moments in equality with the Equal Pay Act of 1963, the Civil Rights Act of 1964, and a Presidential act banning discrimination based on gender in 1967. Women’s fashions became decidedly more practical. 

Unforgettably, the 1980s took the women’s trouser suit to new lengths and exaggerated proportions with many variations on the iconic ‘power suit’. In the words of Marc Jacobs in a 1992 interview "The '80s was Nancy Reagan and Dynasty, huge shoulders, nasty little suits, dress for success, hard-edge, hard-core, mean, aggressive clothes”. The suits seemed to embody a now antiquated idea that for women to achieve power similar to men they must directly mimic them in their dress. But power suits of this era went beyond being just a stuffy corporate symbol, it continued to represent the spirit of rebellion – worn by icons throughout the decade. 

While not the bold statement they once were, the process of determining what to wear to the office, and how to find the right suit, is still fraught with pitfalls for many women. The proportions of many traditional styles are not designed with women in mind – leading to the popularity of ‘oversized’ styles on runways which in reality flatter very few. Achieving the right fit is a downright impossible task for many women, as traditional suiting fabrics can be unforgiving. 

Despite progress, gendered expectations persist, posing challenges for women navigating workplace attire. The future of women's suits promises exciting trends, embracing inclusivity and self-expression. In conclusion, the history of women's suits is a dynamic tapestry reflecting the evolving roles and expectations of women in society. From Victorian constraints to diverse and empowering choices, women's suits continue to be a symbol of progress.